Our ambassador Sebastien Bouin, continues his challenge to the most difficult climbing walls with a new, difficult route. Here are his words that best describe the last milestone reached.
A couple of weeks ago I completed "Azincourt", the first French 8c grade in Buoux! The first ascent of this route was made in 1989 by Ben Moon and that's why it takes its name from a victorious English battle against the French. This route is really unusual because of its style and position.
In fact, there are about ten difficult moves, not much for a climbing route. In addition, the crux has a very "buouxien" style: you have to pull hard on a mono to stretch as much as possible towards a flat two finger pocket with your left hand, and then throw yourself on another ideal mono for your right hand. The difficulty of the crucial point is that it is very trying on the skin and on the tendons of the fingers. This can be frustrating because you can not work the crucial point for a long time. If you do, your skin can tear or, worse, the tendons can break. So you have to be efficient, fast and make sure that every step is necessary. Above all, climb with awareness, in order to avoid injuries.
The route is perched on the ledge of the last difficult routes of Buoux (next to "La Chiquette du Graal", "Le Specter" and others) and adds a bit of fun during climbing.