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CLAUDIO MIGLIORINI | A new route on the north face of the Cime Ovest di Lavaredo

Claudio Migliorini is a Kayland ambassador, climber, mountain guide, multi-talented alpinist and Vibram® tester we have known for a long time. As well as being a complete all-rounder, and expert on anything from via ferratas to high altitude mountaineering, he is also a really nice guy, and as rock solid as the mountains he climbs. And yet he is, as he defines itself, "a boy from the plains in the mountains".

Last September 27, Claudio successfully complete a very special project: the opening of a new route on the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, together with two other mountain guides: Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini.

The three managed to climb the route totally free, a style of climbing where only trad gear is used to protect the ascent and one that requires a very high level of commitment, both physical as well as technical and psychological.

This was a very special ascent: there are already routes on the north face of the Cima Ovest, and it was virtually impossible to imagine there could be yet another free line: a beautiful challenge opened in a very bold style.

The idea for the route came about in 2015; then in 2016 they started scoping out the line, and finally began their first attempt over a 12-day period between 2018 and 2019, given the lack of availability of 20 consecutive days and favourable weather conditions for a sustained attempt, although truth be told the line is so steep that rain wouldn't have posed a particular problem.

The trio undoubtedly had a winning formula which helped them during the opening of the route: three climbers all with the same high level of technical ability, coupled with immense experience gained over many years climbing together. Among other things, this meant they were all able to take turns leading.

The three friends Claudio, Alessandro and Nicola have already opened new routes together in the past. They share the same approach to new-routing which places great value on respect for the mountain itself, staying true to traditional mountaineering values and taking their inspiration from its most famous figures from the past but with an eye to the future: for them, the important thing is to climb using their own strength; only free climbing and without resorting to any points of aid to surmount the most difficult sections.

Their next target is to go back as soon as possible and do an uninterrupted redpoint ascent of the route.

The news of the opening of their new route was reported in the climbing press, including up-climbing.com, montagna.tv, and planetmountain.com.

We would like to take this opportunity to highlight Claudio Migliorini’s most important achievements to date:

● First repetition of the "Via Attraverso il Tempo", graded VIII
● "L'Anima del Lupo", a new route on the north face of Cima Tosa (Brenta Dolomites), graded IV, WI6, M6, VI on rock.
● "L’Ultima Frangia", a new route in Val Brenta, graded M9 WI4

Claudio Migliorini is an Alpine Guide and has been an Academic of the Italian Alpine Club since 2012; when he’s not in the mountains he gives evening talks providing information and consultancy, as well as evenings dedicated to his travels and expeditions; he writes articles about new routes for various publications, magazines and climbing guides including his photographic services.

For Kayland he has tested the Gravity, Vibe, Apex, 4001 and Ice Dragon models.

Follow the adventures of Claudio Migliorini:

Website: https://claudiomigliorini.com/
Instagram
https://www.instagram.com/claudio.migliorini/
Facebookhttps://www.facebook.com/ClaudioMiglioriniAlpinistaGuidaAlpina/

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