Innominata Ridge: climb to the summit of Mont Blanc
"Once in a while it's well to forget for a moment the concerns of fast and light style and enjoy stress-free classic and affordable route.
To savor the mountain in a calm way, sip to sip, and with friends who make the experience even more pleasant.
Thus the Innominata ridge we consider it so.
Sleeping bag and mat, boots in the backpack to comfortably approach in sneakers, food and gas for 4 days and much desire for classic and without pretentions mountaineering.
Day 1. From Entrèves to the Monzino hut. Long and beautiful approach. Birra Moretti are our gift at the end of the first day.
Day 2. From Monzino to Vivac Eccles. Fog, chaotic glacier, seracs that comb us, dodging rocks the size of a dishwasher, open and unstable bergschrunds, lots of heat ... Pure alpine essence!!!
Day 3. The idea was to reach the summit and to sleep in the Vallot shelter, but the heat, the bad conditions and the weight of our backpacks advises us to sleep underneath the snow knife-ridge that gives access to the great cuoloir. Vivac of 5 million stars watching the lights of Courmayeur. Priceless...
Day 4: Snowy ridges, tremendously rotten rock, a lot of heat, rock that cuts our rope, speed on exposed sections, rotten ice in the exit goulotte, endless snow slab, Brouillard ridge and summit. Loneliness at the top, hugs, beauty. Comfortable and pestilent bivouac in the Vallot. How can people be so pig and leave this place so dirty ?? I always think the same thing. We got all the rubbish we can.
Day 5. Down to Chamonix, shower, beer, pizza, photos. HAPPINESS
A beautiful route with atmosphere and exposed.
An advice, when you repeat it, it's better less hot and more snow or ice on the route. It will be safer and much more enjoyable."
Jaime Moreno Montes