L’ULTIMA FRANGIA | A remarkable new route opened by Claudio Migliorini
In the early days of February, our product ambassador Claudio Migliorini has opened a new, spectacular route on the Brenta Group, one of his favorite location in which he climbed a lot through the years, always with Kayland footwear. In his words, the story of this last conquer.
The Brenta group has always had a special charm for me, especially in winter, when its valleys and walls become more inhospitable, cold, lonely. I remember when I began to leaf through the pages of the Vertical Ice Guide on the Brenta group for the first time, and the name of Roberto Parolari often appeared among those who starred in the opening of new routes. In my eyes, the itineraries that Roberto and his various acolytes opened were great, and still are today. The "fate", or maybe not, guided me then to meet Roberto right here, in Brenta, in winter. Of course, that day he was opening, together with Andrea Reboldi, a new route. In a ‘’tumbling" way I joined them and together we opened "Chapeau", a beautiful and demanding mixed route, and from that moment I began a close friendship with Roberto.
The first time for me in Val Brenta Bassa was in 2012, I was bewitched by this icy amphitheater, located under the northern edge of the Crozzon di Brenta, which can be seen during part of the approach. The place is very suggestive and offers a great variety of routes, both on ice and mixed and dry. Roberto Parolari had also been, together with Nicola Tondini and other climbers, the discoverers and authors of the most modern and difficult lines. Among all stands “Sotto gli occhi della Luna” (under the eyes of the moon) open in the old 2000. They were among the first climbs in the area of this kind, but many others followed, so for this reason the place was then called "New Age".
This year I have often travelled for work and for pleasure to climb in Val Brenta. My fantasy was catched every time I passed under this jutting wall and I saw these great fringes of ice coming down from its edge. Among all, in my eyes one of them always stood out, the only one not yet routed by any line: the most direct climb to reach it passed through a precipice, apparently full of hooks, followed by an inverted dihedral covered in part from ice. In the end, one day I told myself "why not?" On January 15, 2018 I decided to try together with Emiliano Mazzarin.
I already had clear ideas about the style and the line to follow and we had all the necessary material: motivated and excited at the idea of climbing! Unfortunately, that day the cold exhausted the battery of our drill in a very short time and after a few meters we were forced to go back down. After an exchange of messages with Roberto Parolari, on February 7, 2018 we organized to return and complete the way together. I really like working with him, I have always done good climbs and his personality gives me a great charge, I feel involved every time by his stories of the first explorations and I like to compare the approach that they used to have in the glory days, with the modern one (not that much has changed ...).
The day is long, but at the end comes a beautiful and challenging line, exclusively in free climbing with quick protections and 6 bolts of progression positioned with resting on the cliffs and the axes.
On February 15, I returned with Alessandro Bau to perform the clean climb. That day also Matteo Pavana followed us, so it was a great opportunity to take some shots of the climb, spending a nice day together and taking a lot of cold! Yeah, because while I was climbing Matteo was stuck all the time on the "fixed" position, patient and silent, ready to catch the "moment" with his camera: it's nice to see and breathe the passion that everyone puts into work and sharing with others these moments!
We called the new route “L’ultima Frangia” (the last fringe). Thanks to Roberto who teased and inspired me with his stories of the first explorations in this area and also to Emiliano, Alessandro and Matteo with whom I shared this beautiful experience. Thanks also to the welcoming Matteo and Doriana of the Pra de la Casa, who at the end of each challenge wait for us with delicious beer and focaccia bread.
Photo credits: Matteo Pavana
Photo credits: Matteo Pavana