NEW ROUTE ON PIZ BUIN FOR TITO AROSIO | A great feat in the Silvretta group
We are more than pleased to receive a report from our Tito Arosio, who tells us about the opening of a new mixed route on the famous Piz Buin.
On Sunday March 31st, Rosa Morotti and I had the pleasure of opening a new route on the east face of Piz Buin, a well-known mountain in the Silvretta group, resting on the Austrian-Swiss border. The Silvretta group is a famous area for high altitude ski mountaineering. But it is much less known for what concerns mountaineering (excluding normal routes) and climbing.
In fact, until now there were no reports of previous climbs in terms of mixed and ice on the east wall of the Piz Buin, as confirmed by the hut keeper and various Graubünden climbers.
The rock is very beautiful and compact and could also fit in summer rock routes, the hut keeper told us that he ventured a couple of times along the wall in the summer finding always beautiful rock, one of these routes must have one or two pitches of rope in common with our route.
The route is super logical, so much that from the first glance, about four years ago, I immediately wondered if this line had already been climbed, and Tomas Wälti (a strong mountain guide and a deep connoisseur of the Graubunden mountains) immediately replied that his opinion was that no one had ever gone up there.
The climb is divided into three parts, the couloir to reach the snowfield in the middle of the wall (4 lengths of snow and ice up to 90 degrees, where we found the greatest difficulties), the snowfield on 30-40 degrees, and the last part of mixed (5 lengths) which presents a classic mixed climbing (M4) with very compact to mediocre rock.
We climbed up to the southeast southeast, and 500 meters of flat ridges separated us from the summit; we then descended in a double rope equipping the stops and dis-climbing in the snowy parts.
Difficulty: 600m WI 4+, M4
Approach: from the village of Gurarda, in the lower Engadine, reach the Tuoi hut (2 hours), from the Tuoi hut head towards "furcla da vermnut" and reach the obvious couloir (1.15 h).
Descent: in double, along the way, it is also possible to reach the summit; in this case it is convenient to go down the normal route. In winter, when approaching with skis, I think the most practical solution is the descent into a double.
Material: series of friends, nuts, a few ice screws, and possibly a few pitons.