PUMORI REPORT | Teofil Vlad opens a new route on Pumori Peak
Our Rumanian alpinist Teofil Vlad, together with Zsolt Torok and Romica Popa, opened a new route on the South East wall of Pumori (7161 m.), a challenging peak in the Nepal region, only 8 kilometers far from the Everest. Here the report of this feat in the words of Teofil.
The opening of a new route on a mountain so great seemed science fiction for me some time ago, and I thought that, in my opinion, it would remain in the books of Mick Fowler, Peter Boardman or Joe Tasker, which inspired me. Over time, I learned to hope, to believe and to desire. Although at a first impression topping the Pumori sounded well also using the normal route, which is not easy at all, but we decided to try a new one just at the right time. After checking it from the base camp, we realised that the route consisted mainly in complicated ice climbing with several mixed cruxes. So, it took us four bivouacs before topping out in a ridge, from where we successfully launched our summit push. We had our acclimatisation period on the close Lobuche Peak (6100 m.) and did some trekking on a circuit, including three passes and two peaks with altitudes higher than 5000m.
Like in 2013 on Nanga Parbat, when I chose the harder side of the mountain, it seems that our aspirations have come to a higher point, to which we have to perform in a greater way. That’s way we faced the SE of Pumori in a new route, we achieved it, and now, on my way to Kathmandu, trying to release the cold off my body and thaw my toes, I’m thinking of the strength of our team, me, Romica and Zsolt, supporting each other and wiping out all fears and doubts in the feat.
The "Les voyages de Petit Prince" route will always stay there... not only on the Pumori peak, but also in our souls.