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ROGER CARARACH ON GRAND JORASSES

THE CATALAN TOPS THE JAPANESE CORRIDOR ON THE BIG ALPINE PEAK

Together with fellow Catalan climbers Marc Toralles and Bru Busom, Kayland ambassador Roger Cararach completed one of the few repetitions of Japanese Corridor on the Grand Jorasses, a line of 1,150 meters that ascends through the middle of the wall with difficulties of VI 6, 6a, A1/A2, opened by a large Japanese group in 1972. Infact, during ten days of 1972, the Japanese expedition with Yasuo Kanda, Yasuo Kato, Hideo Miyazaki, Toku Nakano and Kazuhide Seito completed the first ascent of one of the hardest and most committed routes of the Mont Blanc massif. This group of eight climbers worked in heavy style for 32 days. They looked at the central corridor of the famous north face of the Grand Jorasses and little by little they gained altitude until they signed an opening that gave them great recognition in international mountaineering.

The Japanese Corridor runs between Walker Peak and Whymper Peak, dividing into two almost perfect halves one of the most famous walls of the Alps and in the almost five decades of existence that has barely been repeated half a dozen times...

One of the main complications of this route of 1,150 meters, graduated with difficulties of VI 6, 6a, A1 / A2, is due to how dependent it is on the conditions. In fact, the incorrect ice formation in its uneven reliefs explains the shortage of repetitions.

Marc Toralles, Roger Cararach and Bru Busom got in the way without caring that the corridor presented extremely dry conditions. The intention was to make a bivouac during the ascent, but they had to change plans due to impossibility of finding any shelf that would give them a break, and also motivated by the imminent deterioration of the weather. As things went, they pulled up without stopping and reached the summit around 1:00 am.

Marc Toralles and Roger Cararach have been sharing climbing for half the world for some time. They two and Iker Madoz repeated in the summer of 2017 Tambo, churros y amigos (1,000 m, 7a, A2, M4, 95º) in the Jirishanca, in the Peruvian Cordillera del Huayhuash. This summer of 2018, Oriol Baró joined the group in the attempt to Gasherbrum IV, in the Karakórum.

In Roger curriculum, also, there are two six thousand openings in Nepal with Santi Padrós and Oriol Baró; while in Toralles there is the first repetition and first alpine style of the northeast crest of Huantsán (Cordillera Blanca, Peru), with Oriol Baró.

Source: Desnivel.com

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