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SEB BOUIN | Rodellar triplete

 


Photo credits: © Aletta Bunge

Kayland ambassador Sébastien Bouin, sent us this “triplete” of reports about his achievements in Rodellar, Spain. Enjoy it!

On October 18th I did the First Ascent of the king line “Detectives” 9a in Rodellar, Picineta sector. This route was bolted by Chris Sharma and Dani Andrada themself many years ago. It’s for me the best line in this grade in Rodellar. I did it second go on the first day of this trip. I tried it 4 years ago without success. But I think the story of this first day of the trip makes this send more spicy. The night before yesterday I broke my car on the way to Rodellar. Stuck on the road I had two options: take care of the car or leave the car on the road and going anyway to Rodellar. It took me two seconds to decide the second option. We took the rain during the morning going in Picineta sector. It was a bad start, yet it was a good end! 
Now on to the other projects before the big rain.

On October 29th I did the first repetition of “Patanics” 9b? - 5.15b?, free climbed by Jorge Diaz Rullo this summer. Here the story: 

Nothing will perturb a climbing trip! It started with a car broken on the road, continued with huge rain and wet project, to finish with a piece of metal in the eye…  Yet we will be here until the end. I fell on the last move of this route on my second day. I was thinking to be able to do it with one more climbing day. Then came the rain and everything was wet. I was hoping that the route get dry quickly. Yet, it's still wet now.  I had to reorganize my betas in the wet sequences. I finally find something ok when I got a piece of metal (quickdraw?) on my eye. I went to emergency, and specialist who remove the metal and told me to keep a patch on the eye during two days.  I tried climbing with only one eye, yet it was impossible to do 7b… 

I finally decided to remove the patch for a try in Patanics, and it was the good one! About the grade question, I am thinking it can’t be 9b if I compare to my last realizations (Mamichula, Move, and La Rage d’Adam). For me it feels closer to 9a/+. Yet the route is 100% my style, that’s why my opinion is to propose a downgrade to a  9a+. But it’s my opinion, and I am open to discuss with next repetitors.

Now on to next projects!

On November 3rd I did the first repetition after Dani Andrada of the Mega Line “De battre mon cœur s'est arrêté” 9a, Rodellar, Spain. He proposed the 9a/+ grade. This route is around 60 meters and the name is definitely appropriated. I fell on the last move during the first day because I didn’t check it well, and didn’t see a hold… Yet it was a pleasure to climb again on this route. The climbing trip continues well, now on to other projects!

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