THE SOUL OF THE WOLF | New route for Claudio Migliorini
Claudio Migliorini managed to open a new route in the Brenta Dolomites and as he always does, he sent us a report, full of enthusiasm and details about this latest feat.
Thanks to a round of "patrolling" by Roberto Parolari, we are certain that on the north wall of Cima Tosa it has been formed a line that, in recent years, we have always seen thin, almost non-existent, but that the mind dreamed of and imagined.
An opportunity not to be missed, given the beginning of winter with little snow on the ground and therefore easier approaches. No sooner said than done! On the evening of December 9th we meet again at the winter route of the Brentei Refuge. The next morning we are on the attack and as expected there is a strong wind that will follow us throughout the day. The mask is mandatory, it's really cold. The wall is very dirty with snow, after all we are also sheltered from the strong gusts of wind but we go up slowly: in these conditions we could not do otherwise.
The first part alternates sections on ice and mixed sections on rock; we go up four pitches, we would miss one to get to the snowfield, but the darkness is imminent and we must stop the ascent.
After a couple of weeks we get back to it again, but for this new attempt we choose to go up from the Val Brenta: on the 27th we spend the night at the high Val Brenta hut, the next morning we leave early and by 8 am we are ready to attack. The conditions of the wall are a little improved, being less "dirty" of snow and with no wind. In a few hours we go up those 4 pitches already opened in the previous attempt, we open a new pitch and soon we are on the snowfield under the long snow casting. Roberto lets me lead this first part, then I leave him the first pitch of the casting from the snowfield.
At the next pitch I start to climb the flow, which presents itself in a increasing mass of difficulties, the wall is vertical and there are alternating sections on snow transformed to inconsistent snow which increases the risk, hindering protection.
We went up always with free climbing and using fast protections, handlebars, screws and nails in the stops where it was impossible to do otherwise: I like this style, it is what I prefer and what suits me more.
From the middle of the flow to the top one pitch follow the other with the glare of the headlights: the only way out is towards the top. At 20:30 Roberto joins me at the last stop: we are happy with this new adventure together. Now the abseiling and the long journey to the valley await us.