TITO AROSIO: Destination Siula Grande, Est Wall
Open a new alpine way on the east wall of the Siula Grande 6344 m, never climbed yet.
Period: July 20 - September 1, 2017
Matteo of the Bordella and Matteo "Berna" Bernasconi, both members of “ragni di lecco”.
They have been the protagonists of numerous expeditions in Patagonia, such as those that led to the first climb of the west wall of the Egger Tower in 2013 and the recent and victorious expedition to Cerro Murallón this year.
He has already been in Peru in the Cordillera Huayhuash in 2014 where he opened a new road on Mount Quesillo and tried the west wall of Siula Grande. He did expeditions to Alaska, China and Patagonia.
On this occasion he will test the latest Kayland prototype, the 4001 GTX.
Ultra-technical boot demanding for high altitude mountaineering, excursions for glacier and ice climbing. It has new and exclusive technologies for the best protection in action, Gore-Tex membrane and Vibram New Mulaz outsole to guarantee protection and performance.
Siula Grande is a summit of 6344 meters of the Peruvian Andes, in the Cordillera Huayhuash, which extends to the east with a huge rock shield, one of the most severe and wildest places in South America.
Siula Grande is a rugged mountain, quite isolated, with mountaineering problems.
This mountain became famous after the climb of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, and thanks to their book and film "Touching the Void", which tells of the great and tragic adventure that they saw involved in the 1986 ascent and descent from this mountain to the west side. After Simpson and Yates only 3-4 ropes have been able to reach the top of Siula, mostly opening new ways, however, there is still a line on the most beautiful and impressive east side. The east wall offers a unique combination of technical difficulties on a compact limestone rock wall that rises to 6,000 feet, and mountaineering difficulties represented by long and dangerous access and a high altitude exit and unstable snow frames.
We would like to climb it in alpine style. Starting from the beginning of the wall and coming to the top in a single attempt, without fixing strings or setting up intermediate fields. Opening a beautiful, difficult and elegant street right in the center of the wall.