SEB BOUIN | The Rock Combined Challenge and Seb’s magic season
Does Sébastien Bouin need any introduction?
If there’s still anyone who doesn’t know one of the best pro climbers and crag climbers in the world, as well as Kayland ambassador and tester of Gravity GTX, we suggest them to read the article “Sébastien Bouin, young and determined” and his profile on the website of Black Diamond, top brand for the climbing world which he represents as an ambassador.
From September to November 2019, our “Seb” has achieved many successes, one better than the last: we tell you them in his own words and through amazing pictures.
LA RAGE D’ADAM, FRANCE
On September 4th I did the First Ascent of “La Rage d'Adam” 9b/+, the French hardest route. This route is located in the Ramirole crag, in Verdon Gorges. This route was bolted few years ago. This year, this route was a big objective to me.
The difficulty is not so long: there is a first short 8c (5.14b) of 6 quickdraws to reach the boulder crux problem. This boulder is HARD. It’s around 10 amazing moves on little pinches and underclinds in a super overhang part. Then you have 25 meters of “easy” climbing (around 8b).
Adam Ondra tried this route few years ago, I found interesting to ask him what he is thinking about:
About the route:
It was a summer day of 2015, conditions felt quite good though and Seb showed me this project, that he had briefly tried before. He mentioned hard boulder problem and when arrived there, even after 20 minutes I did not really imagine any possible sequence that could make it more climbable. After even minutes hanging in the bolts, I came up with some crazy gaston beta, but I could not do the moves either and dismissed the route as too hard to be climbable in the near future… Well, Seb did not give up, came back, got some better beta, got super strong and finally sent it this year!
About the grade:
I mean, my guess is that it could be more of 9b/b+, if not even harder, based on my one and only experience of the route - which felt HARD!
About the name of the route:
I believe the name is appropriate ;-)
THE ROCK COMBINED CHALLENGE, FRANCE
I have a crazy project: in the same week, making the First Ascent of the French hardest sport climbing route, AND repeat the French hardest multi-pitch. Both of them are in the Verdon Gorges. I am actually working the sport climbing route “La rage d'Adam” which could be between 9b and 9b+ (5.15b / 5.15c). The Challenge is to do straightly after this one the multi-pitch “Hossana” 8c max (5.14b max). Here the description of the multi pitch : 8b/+ - 8b - 8b - 8c - 7b+ Working a hard sport climbing route and a hard multi-pitch is definitely not the same process.
The place is magical, and we are talking about world class routes.
Photo credits: © Tilby Vattard
SEB’S MAGIC SEASON
Sebastien Bouin has been working hard on last autumn, read more on Kayland Blog!
Here is a recap of the previous most important achievements of Sébastien Bouin’s career:
- Chilam Balam, 9a+/9b
- 27 routes between 9a and 9a+/9b
- 9 first ascents between 9a and 9a+
- Le Toit d’Orsay, 8c
- Silence, 9c - 5.15 d
You can read some of Sébastien’s achievements in Kayland Blog:
- Mamichula, 9b - 5.15b
- Pachamama, 9a+ - 5.15a
- Azincourt, 8c
- Côte d'Usure, 9a+
- “Les yeux plus gros que l'antre”, 9a+/9b
- “Vintage Rock Tour”
Follow Seb Bouin adventures:
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bouinseb/YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0in5snOa3tXXPStXcxlllQ